What's up Fashion Geeks?
I'm continuously gathering any and all questions regarding Fashion Ground Zero online fashion mini-courses so that you can have as much info as possible before you make your purchase.
If you have a question that isn't listed, contact me, I'm here to help!
As a Fashion professor, I read a lot of fashion books.
Fashion textbooks, fashion biographies, fashion reference books, you name it.
To start off this particular series, I'm starting with a main building block of fashion learning: FABRICS & TEXTILES
One singular piece of advice I give to everyone wanting to pursue fashion, either as a career or a hobby, is to
ALWAYS BE BUILDING YOUR FOUNDATION OF FASHION KNOWLEDGE
Fabrics are the main ingredient to fashion apparel so the more you know about fabrics, the better choices you can make.
Let's start by getting our hands on some actual fabrics...
In a time of online shopping, knowing your fabrics is even more important. This book not only describes fashion fabrics but includes actual fabric swatches you can touch and examine, which will help you evaluate online fabric purchases.
This is one of the books I use for my college fabrics & textiles course and has become a valuable reference in my personal library as well.
The companion textbook for the swatch kit, which I also use in my college courses, is
This textbook goes into quite a bit more detail than the swatch book, but doesn't include any actual fabric swatches. It is ultimately intended to work together with the Swatch Book. Both are published in the U.K. but are appropriate for U.S. readers.
Next, for true lovers of the immersive deep dive:
A classic college fibers & textiles course textbook, this book is a very thorough, in-depth study of textiles for fashion, interior decor, and industrial uses. If you love to know all the reasons and processes behind stuff, this is for you. It uses a bit more of a scientific approach so you really get the whole picture of how fibers are created or grown, all the ways they are turned into yarns, and all the ways the yarns get turned into textiles.
The companion swatch book to this text is:
The difference of this swatch kit to the above Fabric for Fashion Swatch Book is that this kit will have you assemble the swatches and write out the pertinent information into the provided binder. This is a great exercise to really solidify knowledge while you are handling and labeling each fabric.
If assembling the book sounds like fun to you, get this one. If it sounds like a terrible chore, get the first one. To each their own!
And finally,
Another solid classic reference book. This one is more geared towards the home sewer and home decor folks. I don't use this textbook in my college courses, but I do use it with private sewing students wanting a non-textbook-y reference book to keep on their shelf.
Sandra Betzina is well known in the world of home sewing this book delivers with additional info on how to handle various fabrics (like pressing, pre-treating, stitching, etc.)
That's all for now. More fashion books to come in Part 2!
Happy designing/creating/sewing/making!
~Jules
I used to think that I knew all I needed to know about fabrics just because I grew up sewing from a young age.
Now don't get me wrong, experience using fabrics IS part of the equation, but it doesn't mean you won't have knowledge gaps. Or that you will automatically know what fabric is best for a given project. Or more frustrating, what won't work for a given project.
Wasted time...wasted fabric...frustration...
Now I didn't get the full picture of fabrics until college when I was working on my Fashion Design degree - the traditional 16-week course chocked full of great information, but also a lot of info I've never used.
And then I learned more actually working in various parts of the fashion industry (I learned about swimwear fabrics from my swimwear industry jobs, sportswear fabrics from designing sportswear, and outdoor gear fabrics working in that part of the industry).
So after all the years and experiences and college classes, I now know what fabric stuff is crucial to know, and what is not.
And I want to pass this onto you, so you can learn way more efficiently and inexpensively than I did!
If you'd like to eliminate the frustration, the wasted fabrics, the wasted time, you need a quick and easy way to learn some fabric essentials, without a huge time commitment and without breaking the bank.
Cue the online mini-course, The Basics of Fashion Fabrics
This mini-course is easy to access, you can go at your own pace, on your own time, in your own space!
This is what students have to say about The Basics of Fashion Fabrics online mini-course:
"I'm so happy I took it because about a year ago, my mother-in-law gave me this huge stash of fabric, and it was then that I realized just how little I knew about fabrics. I've been sewing my whole life and I really don't know a lot about fabrics. So I took the course and I'm so glad I did because one, I learned that I've got a lot of good stuff in that stash."
~ Breann
Listen to Breann's complete review on TikTok:
Breann is also in the process of growing her Etsy shop and, as you can hear on the video, her newly gained fabric knowledge will help her accurately describe her product materials 🤓
The Basics of Fashion Fabrics online mini-course is available now, and accessible instantly upon sign up. Find it here!
Feel free to reach out with any questions here. I answer all emails myself personally 😊
Happy sewing/designing/creating,
Jules
To start, you'll want to consider what kind of garment you're making and what qualities are important for that type of garment. This will help you figure out the fabric properties you need to look for.
For example, if you're making a structured garment like a blazer or coat, you'll want a fabric with some stiffness and weight to hold its shape.
If you're making a flowy, lightweight garment like a summer dress, you'll want a fabric that drapes well and has some breathability.
You'll also want to consider the care instructions for the fabric.
Another important consideration is the level of difficulty in working with a fabric. For example, if you're new to sewing, you may want to avoid fabrics that are slippery, stretchy, or extremely thin.
Download my FREE guide "How to Select the Right Fabric for Your Garments" so you can feel confident selecting the best fabrics for your next project:
When it comes to design, the first thing people notice is color!
And finally...
By taking these factors into account, you'll be able to select a fabric that works well for your specific sewing project and meets your needs and preferences.
Here are just a few common fabric fiber types and their characteristics, to get you thinking:
Ultimately, the best way to determine if you're using the right fabric is to do a test garment or swatch to see how the fabric behaves when sewn and worn.
You can also consult with a sewing or fashion design expert for additional guidance.
Now let's get designing, sewing, and making!
Happy creating!
~Jules
I offer Fashion Mentoring 1:1 sessions for any question you may have about your personal projects or fashion & sewing goals! More info and booking here.
I got this question on my TikTok video about linen:
"I am just learning to love natural fibers. What are good sources for linen clothes? I'd love to try!"
So my first question back would be, "what's your budget?" because like a lot of things, linen is available as a lot of different price points.
Here's my advice: buy the best quality you can afford. There's different grades of linen, some being very expensive, some very inexpensive.
The less expensive linen will probably have a thicker, rougher, coarser texture and the more expensive linens will have a more tightly woven, finer, softer hand.
It's been my experience that the rougher textured linen just takes more washing and wearing to get to a level of softness that I find comfortable.
My number one top bit of advice is go find something that's made of linen at the thrift store and try it out! It's incredibly inexpensive (relative to new garments) and that way you don't end up spending a fortune on something that maybe you don't like and you'll never wear. Don't forget to check the men's shirt section, too!
And just keep in mind that linen is incredibly durable, it's very lasting and so even if you did spend a little more money on it, if you take care of that garment, it's going to last forever.
When investing in a high quality linen garment, buy a style that's classic that you're not going to get sick of, not too trendy so you can wear it and wear it and wear it! 😊
]]>Want to know more about fashion fabrics? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics online mini-course is available now! Sign up below for more info:
Linen is the oldest textile in the world, much older than cotton.
Linen has a classic, relaxed elegance to it and it is the perfect choice for hot weather. It's cool, absorbent properties are unparalleled by any other fiber.
Linen comes from the flax plant whose fibrous stalks are processed into fibers suitable for spinning onto yarn.
Some people don't like linen because it gets too wrinkly but I say just wear it wrinkled!
Some people consider linen itchy and kind of stiff but the more you wash and wear linen, the softer it gets each time.
I love linen in all its forms but maybe if you're concerned about linen wrinkles, instead of choosing a formal look, try a more relaxed and washed linen look.
Linen was the fabric of choice all the way up to the 19th century.
Linen was used for so many household items that we now use it as a generic term for all the items like sheets, towels, bedding, and tablecloths.
Obviously there's so much more to be said about linen but for now just know if you want to keep cool, wear linen 😎
]]>Know your fabrics! Want to know more? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics online mini-course is available now! Sign up below for more info:
@juliedemaggio Fashion Fun Facts #studyfashion #fashionhistoryfacts #themoreyouknow #passionforfashion ♬ Food-JP - Mega Chill
Clothing has existed since prehistoric times, but WHY?
I know what you're thinking, "Duh, it's for protection from the elements." This is a motivation for wearing clothes, but it's not the only one.
Modesty
Status
Decoration
Protection
are also motivations along with protection. But what's the primary motive? What's the one motivation that crosses cultures throughout the entirety of history?
Keep in mind, the earliest depictions of clothing are from cave painting from the Stone Age, the Early Paleolithic Period some 30,000 years ago!
And we're talking about studying clothing from every culture around the entire globe!
The thing is, is that we've observed cultures that are wearing clothing that don't appear to have any protective function whatsoever. The one thing that has been found is that all cultures use some form of decoration.
So we can conclude that decorating oneself is a basic human practice and is the primary motive for wearing clothes.
]]>My mom taught me how to use her sewing machine when I was 7 years old. Pretty much every summer when we were off school my mom would take us to the fabric store and let us pick out a pattern and some fabric to make something to wear. So by the time I was in junior high school, I was a pretty good seamstress.
Now, this was the 1980's and it was still affordable at that time to make your own clothes. But that's not to say it was necessarily cool. Especially in junior high school when everyone just really kind of wants to shop at the mall and buy whatever everyone else has.
Anyway, one of our favorite stores at the mall was Miller's Outpost. If you are of a *certain age* I'm sure you remember Miller's Outpost. So when I was in the 7th grade, they had this madras plaid skirt that I absolutely loved. However, it was out of the budget.
Shockingly I somehow stumbled upon the exact same fabric at the fabric store that summer. So even though my school clothes budget was probably already spent, I convinced my mom to buy me some of that fabric ad I found a pattern that looked just like the skirt in Miller's Outpost.
So, I made the skirt, wore it to school, felt like a million dollars, but there's more!
Remember, I'm in the 7th grade and this girl in the 8th grade came up to me - a girl who I thought was very cool and fashionable and a year older - and she said, "Oh my god, I love your skirt! Did you get it at Miller's Outpost?"
And I was so proud of my lookalike skirt that I said, "Yes. Yes I did."
Now of course, the me of today would be like, "No, I did not buy this, I MADE it myself!" But at that time, and at that age there was a stigma around making your own clothes like, "Oh, you're too poor to shop at the mall," and I was just really proud of the fact I could sew good enough for my clothes to pass as store-bought.
The point of this story is to learn how to sew, make your own clothes, wear them proudly, and be happy that you live in a time where you don't have to be ashamed that you make your own clothes - That's not even a thing anymore!
]]>In my previous video we were talking about knit fabrics vs woven fabrics and how to identify each type.
So in the textile world we have:
and it all has to do with the construction of the fabric - how it's specifically made.
Felt is a nonwoven textile. Knits and woven are knitted and woven, respectively from yarns. Felt does not require yarns, it only requires fibers (what yarns are made up of).
So without getting overly technical, suffice it to say that felt is made with fibers that are simply mashed together. Sometimes the application of heat, moisture, and once in a while adhesives, the fibers can join together to form a textile.
The easiest fiber to use for felt is wool because fibers have microscopic barbs that tend to stick together with little effort.
Chances are when you think about felt you picture the sheets of craft felt from the craft store. That type of felt isn't made from 100% wool, it is made from a blend of less expensive fibers such as acrylic, polyester, and/or rayon.
When you pull apart a piece of felt and look closely, you'll see there is no organized structure to it - remember it has not been woven or knitted. You can see the individual fibers when you pull it apart.
Another nonwoven fabric that is similar in construction to felt is the nonwoven interfacing used to sewing applications. You can also pull that apart easily and see the fibers it is made up of.
Hopefully that helps a bit, along with the video, to clarify our classifications of fabric. This knowledge will ultimately help you decide which fabrics are best for the projects and clothing you want to make!
]]>Want to know more about wool and other fabrics? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics mini-course is available now!
Sign up below to get more info:
The #1 thing you need to know about fabrics is the difference between a knit and a woven.
Maybe when you were young you learned a little something about weaving by making a potholder on a plastic loom? Maybe at some point in your life someone has tried to teach you how to knit?
Woven fabrics are made by weaving yarns over and under each other in patterns (see video at 00:23). Knitted fabrics are constructed using one continuous yard in a series of loops (see video at 00:28).
Generally speaking, knits are stretchy. For example, a T-shirt. Woven fabrics are rigid (not stretchy) as in a pair of twill pants. But that's not always the case because there are fabrics we call "stretch wovens." The best example of a stretch woven is denim jeans that have spendex, for stretch.
If you look at your own clothing closely you'll start to recognize the patterns, the stretch, and the feel of what is a knit and what is a woven.
If it still seems a bit confusing, that's okay. Just remember, the more textiles you touch, feel, manipulate, wear, and examine closely the better. It will come with experience!
]]>Know your fabrics! Want to know more? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics mini-course is available now! Sign up below for more info:
Here is a casual overview to this popular garment fiber.
I know what you're thinking, "Yeah, yeah I know all about wool. It comes from sheep."
Yes, we do get wool from sheep. But we also get wool-like fibers from:
The use of wool for clothing can be traced back tens of thousands of years. It is one of the oldest known fibers used by humans for clothing.
The exterior of wool fiber is hydrophobic and tends to repel water while the interior of the fiber is hydroscopic and attracts water. This structure allows garments made from wool to maintain their natural insulating properties even when wet.
Here's some types of wool you might see on garment labels:
]]>Want to know more about wool and other fabrics? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics mini-course is available now!
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A fabric made from wood?!? Yep, it's rayon, and it's made from wood pulp.@juliedemaggio Fabric made from wood?!? Yep. #themoreyouknow #studyfashion ♬ Cafe BGM, Uptempo Swing Jazz Guitar - Hanadayama Music Lab
Rayon was invented by chemists in the late 1800's as an "artificial silk." It's an amazing fabric but sadly it's not that great on the environment. Making wood into nice soft fibers for rayon fabric actually requires some pretty caustic chemicals.
Since the 1970's though, scientists have been coming up with better ways to make rayon. Lyocell was created as a response to the environmental concerns of rayon production.
In the 1990's Lyocell was brand-named Tencel. My fellow fashion designers and I just thought it was a fancy new, expensive version of rayon. And it was, but what we didn't realize then was that it was expensive because of the new process that was making more environmentally friendly.
Rayon is soft, drapey, and it takes colors well.
Oh, and do you know what else is a rayon? Bamboo fabric. Bamboo has to be processed similarly to wood to make it appropriate for fabric fiber.
]]>Want to know more about fabrics? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics mini-course is available now!
Sign up below for more info:
It's ya girl again with a couple of tips...
Clothing resellers, please put measurements on your garment listings! If your garment has a size tag, by all means list the size. BUT you have to put some kind of measurements because *news flash* clothing sizes are not standard!
Especially if you're working with vintage clothing, whose sizes are totally different than today's modern sizing.
Basically you want to make it as easy as possible for your customers to see a garment, love it and buy it instantly without wondering if it will fit them. They'll have no need to message you with questions about size because you'll have all the information right there in the listing for them.
You may not mind answering a few questions now and then when you're starting out, but as your small business grows, the more questions you have to answer, the more hassle it will become. SO do all that you can to foresee what questions might come up about sizing and put those measurements in the written part of the listing!
Make it easy on yourself! How to measure garments is in the video at 1:04 minute mark.
Lay garment on a flat surface, use a good measuring tape, and measure the following points:
Tops & dresses (see video for demo):
Pants (see video for demo):
Make quicker sales, customers happier, and fewer returns!
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Do you sell on Depop, Poshmark, Etsy, Ebay, or Instagram?
Do you describe the type of fabric or the fiber content of the garments you sell? If you don't, you might be missing out on a lot of sales.
Folks who know a thing or two about fashion, fabrics, and clothing in general, they want to see fiber content and what type of fabric the garment is made out of before buying.
If it's unclear what kind of fabric the garment is - and it's very hard to tell from just photos - then chances are shoppers won't purchase.
Savvy shoppers will also assume that you don't have much experience with clothing and may not have much confidence in buying from you, nor will they follow your shop.
With second-hand clothing becoming more and more accepted, and increasingly more folks selling on these apps, it simply is not enough for sellers to have great style and fashionable assortments of merchandise in their shops. You have to earn buyers' trust by giving as much information about your items as possible.
So what can you do to improve your listings and gain customer trust? Add the following fabric information to every listing:
Fiber content. If the garment has a label, add a photo of it and list out the fiber content in the written listing. For example, a vintage T-shirt may have a label that says "50% polyester, 50% cotton." Write exactly that in your listing.
Type of fabric. Is it a knit fabric, such as jersey or tricot? Is it a woven fabric, such a twill or denim? This won't typically be specified on a label, it just takes fabric knowledge and experience.
Now go out there and get MORE SALES!
Want to know more about fabrics? I gotchu! My Basics of Fashion Fabrics mini-course is launching soon. Sign up below to get notified when it launches!
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